Type B, Boarding Group Z

My fellow happy hikers, climb Mt. Toubkal! Not only is it the tallest mountain in North Africa, but it’s actually a really enjoyable climb, and very doable if you are in relatively good shape (and that’s coming from someone who currently is not). Toubkal, the highest peak in the Atlas Mountain Range, is accessible straight from Marrakech. I honestly think this hike would be fairly straight forward to do alone, however it is illegal to go without a licensed guide. On the bright side, it’s inexpensive and always fun to have an extended walk-and-talk with someone who knows the area well. 

View from the summit of Mt. Toubkal

Toubkal became illegal to hike without a guide after an incredibly tragic and disturbing incident that happened in 2018. Two young European women who had been hiking and camping on their own near the basecamp of Toubkal were murdered by a group of Moroccan men who were radicalized by extremist ideology inspired by ISIS. I heard this story for the first time at the basecamp refuge the night of my summit attempt, and I must admit I did not sleep well for those few hours before starting the climb. I’m mentioning this horrific event not to spread fear, but to commend the bravery of the two girls and to explain why there should be no complaints about needing a guide. That all being said, don’t be scared. Morocco is a very safe country, and times have significantly changed since the fall of ISIS. It’s just important to be educated and aware. 

Toubkal Basecamp Refuge

 I booked my guide through Get Your Guide with a company that to my knowledge is just called Marrakech Day Trips. Despite the deceiving name (the trek was 2 days), it was a great experience and I highly recommend them. The WhatsApp number is here if you feel so inclined: +212 676-502520. Another great option is Mustapha, a young guide who leads Toubkal treks as well as other experiences in the Atlas Mountains and Berber villages. His instagram is @mustapha_tour_guide_ and his WhatsApp is +212 760-067185. For any Toubkal guide you go with, there will be an option for either a 2 or 3 day trek. I chose the 2-day option, mostly out of pure impatience to tell people I climbed it. You get picked up early the first morning from your accommodation in Marrakech, then off you go on what should be an hour and a half drive (but it will be more like 2 hours because it’s Moroccan time) to Imlil, a Berber village in the mountains from where you will begin your hike. On brand with Moroccan time yet again, we ended up waiting in this village for quite a while before starting the hike to the refuge, but there were other people waiting with me and I love to yap so it all worked out. In Imlil you can rent equipment if you need any for very reasonable prices. For example, I was desperate to not get charged by the reason for my flight anxiety, RyanAir, so I couldn’t fit my hiking boots and just rented some there. Once you finally get going, it is actually a great first day of hiking. Super beautiful views, remote feeling, mountain air that will save your soul and your lungs after Marrakech, and just the right amount of challenging (as in you feel accomplished at the refuge, but still ready for the summit the next morning). You will be basically sharing a bed with whatever group you join, because the bunk beds are all connected and it’s more or less one giant mattress. Luckily, you’ll only be sleeping a few hours, then it’s time to get going yet again. 

On the way up!

Summit day! Or should I say night? Either way, it’s real dark and real cold. You’ll be woken up at the ripe hour of 3am to have a quick breakfast and start the climb. It’s definitely not the coldest climb I’ve ever done, but it’s chilly for sure. You want to be wearing at least a fleece or sweatshirt and a real jacket, and ideally gloves and a hat. That being said, a guy in my group climbed the whole thing in shorts, so really what do I know. The hike from the refuge to the summit should take about 3-4 hours, and it’s not too steep. Relatively speaking. The summit was gorgeous, the sunrise illuminated the jagged rocks with different shades of pink and bathed the desert far away in the distance in a hazy, golden light. After you get your share of pictures, it’s time to head down, because you have quite a ways to go. For me, the way down was significantly more challenging than the way up. But that’s because no matter how much practice I get or how much high-altitude experience I have, I just cannot seem to master walking down on steep scree. Don’t be worried, no one else on the mountain seemed to have as much of a problem with this as I did, but I feel the need to give a warning anyway. A major part of my issue stemmed from the fact that I am 5-foot-2 on a good day, and the group I joined happened to consist of entirely 6-foot-5 Irish guys. My stubby little legs were fighting to keep up. Anyways, I made it down to the refuge eventually, had some real breakfast, and packed up (you leave most of your stuff in the refuge while you go to the summit). We started the walk all the way down to Imlil, and I swear I was sprinting to keep up with these long-legged Irish giants. By the time we arrived back at the Berber village I was covered in dust and about ready to slap the next Irish man who asked why I was falling behind (by the way, I was the first one at the summit). A true testament to my “I don’t want to go to Moroccan jail” willpower, I restrained myself. We drove back to Marrakech, and I was overall very happy with the experience, snarky Irish men aside, and I highly recommend it to anyone who wants a solid hike in a very unique environment. 

Me miserable on the summit after stripping my warm jacket for the picture